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Old 10-04-2013, 08:05 PM   #1
BS2K
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Default Bloodstöwenbräu Recipe

Bloodstöwenbräu

Lowenbrau Original Clone
  • Type Extract
  • Batch size 5.0 gal
  • Boil time 60 min
  • 5.3% ABV
Ingredient list.
2-Row Brewers Malt 1.0 lb Steep
2-Row Carapils Malt 8.0 oz Steep
Caramel 60L Malt 8.0 oz Steep
Golden Light LME 6.0 lb Boil
Corn Sugar (Dextrose) 1.0 lb Boil
German Hallertau Hops 1.0 oz Boil
Priming sugar 4.5 oz time of bottling
5 to 6 Gallons spring water
10 Pounds Ice 10.0 lb
Safale S 04 Dry Ale Yeast 1 packet for a top fermentation at higher temperatures.
OR
Saflager W-34/70 Lager Yeast 1 Packet for bottom fermentation at lower temperatures.


SANITIZE EVERYTHING FIRST!!!


In a 20 Quart or larger Stainless stockpot, Bring 2 gallons water to 155F and turn off the heat.


Time to add the grains.
Drop the grain bag into the water for 30 minutes Lifting the grain bag out of the water off and on like a tea bag. After 30 minutes of soaking the grains lift out and allow the water to drip out. Once the water has all dripped out (Without squeezing) Discard the Grain bag , Add 1 Gallon of water and return to heat until boiling 212F


Time to add the Malt and Dextrose.
Turn off the heat, and move the stock pot to a cool burner. *IMPORTANT*


Add the 6.0 Lbs of Malt Extract first , stirring constantly to dissolve. Add the 16OZ of the Corn Sugar (Dextrose) stirring constantly to dissolve and break up the dextrose clumps.
Return to heat once the mixture is dissolved. The mixture now contains a LOT of sugar and can burn quickly if not stirred. When the Mixture reaches boiling, it can rise very quickly and boil over. At this time, reduce the heat to control the rising foam. Once the boil is under control ,
Adjust the heat to a good rolling boil with out boiling over.
Time to add the Hops.
As a rule of thumb I lower the heat when I add my hops.
Because the Oils can react with the Sugars causing an over foam.
And potential scalding burns. Set timer to 60 minutes. And stir often.




Once the Boil time has elapsed sense the hops were added. Remove the wort from the heat and cool down quickly to 80F. A wort chiller can be used. A Sink full of ice can be used .
But from here , I like to take my 10lb bag of ice and dump it in my primary fermentation vessel.
And Dump my just boiled wort into my fermentation vessel with the ice to get my Wort cooled quickly to 80F .



Vigorously stir the Wort to assure that all the ice has melted, and the sugars are all well mixed with the newly added liquids from the Ice. Add cool water to the 5 1/4th gallon mark. And take a thermometer reading to ensure you are
in-between 80F--TO--90F.


Check the specific gravity of the Wort with a Hydrometer and Note the reading.
The Original gravity should be around 1.051 to 1.060


Time to add the yeast.
Sprinkle the yeast over the top of the Wort, Wait about 10 minutes to for the yeast to activate.
Then stir very gently into the wort with a few strokes of the spoon.
Now Put you Lid on your primary fermentation vessel. With the airlock installed
Move to a dark cooler area like a closet. Fill the airlock 1/3rd with water..


After 12---36 hours depending on the yeast and the temperatures, the wort will begin to churn and the yeast will start the fermentation process . And you will note bubbles coming from your air lock. Depending on the temperature you are fermenting at. The fermentation process can continue for about 3—4 days after it started. Then cease as the settling begins. As Rule if there is a day with out bubbles from the airlock it has done it's job.


Generally you will be able to bottle after a week to 10 days after beginning fermentation. If using an Ale yeast or if you had higher fermentation temperatures.


Note Lager yeasts, don’t ferment as vigorously as an Ale yeast will. So the bubble activity will vary between the 2 yeast strains types.


Well here we are a week or so later. Guess What you have? BEER! NON Carbonated Flat beer.
If you choose take a Final hydrometer reading do so now. Should be close to 1.013.


Boil 2 cups of water in a sauce pan slowing adding the 5oz of priming sugar.


Move your Primary fermentation vessel to the counter.
(You can do this a few hours before hand to allow the sediment to settle to the bottom)
With your bottling vessel on a chair or the ground. Start to Siphon the beer into the bottling vessel slowly pour the warm priming sugar mixture into the bottling vessel at the same time,
the movement of the beer will mix the sugar together with the beer.
Stop the Siphon before before it begins to pick up sediment from the primary fermentation vessel. Bottle then Cap Then Place beer in a dark area for around 3 weeks And then?


ENJOY THE LOWIES!!!








Grains


2-Row Brewers Malt: (1.8 ) Mild Malty Base malt for all beer styles. Smoother, less grainy flavor than 6-Row Brewers Malt. Slightly higher yield than 6-Row Brewers Malt. Slightly lower protein than 6-Row Brewers Malt.
Carapils : Very unique dextrin-style malt that adds body, foam retention and beer stability without influencing color or aroma.
Caramel 60L: Sweet, Pronounced Caramel.
Hops
German Hallertau Hersbrucker Hops:Common in German pilsners, this noble hop has a grassy, hay-like aroma, and is seldom used for bittering purposes.




I use these to try and come as close the the Lowies I have always loved and can no longer get.
And this is PRETY CLOSE to any LOWIE I have ever had. !!!




Enjoy your Bloodstöwenbräu ! YOU VIL DRINK IT!
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:24 PM   #2
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Excellent explanation of the process there Dylan.
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:43 PM   #3
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Thanks brotha! we are headed to Vegas as we speak. My brew shop just got fresh grains in
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:19 PM   #4
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Thanks, man! Some HELPFUL posts here.

I am a huge fan of German beer. My friend got me into this stuff and I absolutely love the Lowenbrau Original! The German malt seems to add that grainy/bread-like accents to the overall taste. I'm from Poland and the Polish ones lack that particular thingy IMO. Most "popular" Polish beers are shitty but there has been recently an enormous growth in popularity of craft beers and generally higher quality stuff. Lots of beer stores here in the capital city where I'm studying IT.

Have you ever tried beer made by Schneider & Sohn? Meine Hopfenweisse is lovely. Aventinus, both the regular one and eisbock, too.
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:27 AM   #5
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Thanks for posting.
Saved that GOOD EATS vid you posted.
Might give brewing a try someday.
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Old 10-08-2013, 05:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magister View Post
Thanks, man! Some HELPFUL posts here.

Have you ever tried beer made by Schneider & Sohn? Meine Hopfenweisse is lovely. Aventinus, both the regular one and eisbock, too.
Welcome man! Nothing tastes like a good craft home brew to me. VERY clean and full crisp flavors. and the price cant be beat. If you buy grains in bulk? you can get your beer for about 30---70 Cents a bottle. for beer that you made yourself and will actually LIKE

I have never tried those. are the good ?
Where i live in UTAH USA ? we can only buy SHIT 3% beers at the local stores . and to get a real beer or an import we have to go to the liquor store
and just for one 22oz bottle of becks as an example ? it is 4$ hence the fact i started to home brew my own again.
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Old 10-08-2013, 05:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MACHINE View Post
Thanks for posting.
Saved that GOOD EATS vid you posted.
Might give brewing a try someday.

Thanks man! If you ever do ? let me know. some really easy tips to make it go a lot faster and smoother .. it isn't rocket science. but one MAJOR thing to remember is a GOOD POT Mine is a 20$ 32 QT tamale pan from Walmart.... and watch for Foam overs.

The brew store i order from isn't far from you. and one of the better ones for fresh grains in the country.
And you can always start out with a KIT too. Till you want to start calulating your own grains and sugars etc.

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produc...oducts_id=1852
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:47 PM   #8
MACHINE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BS2K View Post
Thanks man! If you ever do ? let me know. some really easy tips to make it go a lot faster and smoother .. it isn't rocket science. but one MAJOR thing to remember is a GOOD POT Mine is a 20$ 32 QT tamale pan from Walmart.... and watch for Foam overs.

The brew store i order from isn't far from you. and one of the better ones for fresh grains in the country.
And you can always start out with a KIT too. Till you want to start calulating your own grains and sugars etc.

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produc...oducts_id=1852

Will do.
Always check out your posts on FACEFUCK regarding this kinda stuff.
As always, a pleasure.
Out.
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BS2K View Post
Welcome man! Nothing tastes like a good craft home brew to me. VERY clean and full crisp flavors. and the price cant be beat. If you buy grains in bulk? you can get your beer for about 30---70 Cents a bottle. for beer that you made yourself and will actually LIKE

I have never tried those. are the good ?
Where i live in UTAH USA ? we can only buy SHIT 3% beers at the local stores . and to get a real beer or an import we have to go to the liquor store
and just for one 22oz bottle of becks as an example ? it is 4$ hence the fact i started to home brew my own again.
I'll surely try brewing something, maybe next summer.

They are really good, some of the best German beers I've ever tasted. I can only imagine how expensive the real beer is there in the States.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magister View Post
I'll surely try brewing something, maybe next summer.

They are really good, some of the best German beers I've ever tasted. I can only imagine how expensive the real beer is there in the States.

Right ON!. I love home brewing. It take's minimal $$$ to make a starter set up. just a decent large stock pot. a fermentation bucket.and a bottling bucket. funnel, hydrometer.

it is very expensive. One 22 oz becks in a bottle is 4$ but then again, the state where i live controls all the liquor
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